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Having cleaned and straightened the pickup strips, they need to be relocated
on the bogeys. The bogeys are identical, but the pickups are not, so
make sure that you create a front bogey and a rear bogey. With one
bogey facing one way and the other bogey facing the other way, the pickups
should both be fitted to the same rail when they are on the track. See the photo taken during dismantling on
the left. Bogeys are facing each other. The pickups both need to
be fitted to the top side of the picture. It doesn't actually matter
which side - the bogies can be interchanged afterwards, resulting in the
pickup being on the opposite side track. |

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Here is a photo of the 'front' bogey, pickup fitted. |

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And the underside of the same bogey. Fit the 2 idler gears as shown.
Bend the two short pickup strips outwards slightly so
that they have enough spring to keep them pressed against the inside face of
the wheels when
they are relocated. |

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Fit the two axles. It is very important to spot the black insulating
sleeve on one side. It is between the
axle and the wheel hub and can be seen on the photo - see the 'collar' around the end of the axle
shaft. The other side doesn't have this. It is essential that
the wheels are located so that this collar is on the same side of the bogey
as the copper pickup strip. If you get this wrong, there will be a
direct short when you apply power to the track. When inserting the axles, make sure that there
is enough spring in the short pickup contact for it to press against the
back of the wheel. |

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Final check - Two wheel axles. Two idler gears. Copper pickup in
contact with inside face of wheel. Axle insulating sleeve on the same
side as the pickups. Very thins smear of very thin oil on gears. |
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Fit the baseplate. (This is a photo of a bogey from a different
Warship from the one above) |