Note the absorbent gauze in the well at the bottom of the loco body.

Insert the two gear axles into the upturned bogie.

Note that the wheels have one side with an insulated hub. The one on the right shows this, the one on the left is the other way up and has no insulation.

Drop the wheel into the bogie with the insulated hub on the side with the pickups. Here, I am using a screwdriver to keep the pickup out of the way as I drop the wheel into place.

And here is the bogie with both brass cogs and both wheels installed. Replace the plate and the single screw that retains it. The bogie can be turned the right way now. Give it a push around the track, make sure everything is smooth, and do a final check. Insulated wheels go on the right of the loco. (Remember that the rear bogie faces the other way, so the coupling will be at the other end. Don't get confused by this. All of the insulated wheels will be on the right of the loco.

This is the front bogie, viewed from the rear. The copper pickup needs to be bent slightly upwards. It looks a little out of shape in this shot.

Drop the body ove the bogie.......

....make sure that the hole for the gear pin sits properly.....

......drop the gear into the slot at the top

.... and insert the pin from the side. You will probably have to gently agitate the plastic cog in order to get the hole aligned with the pin as it is pushed in gently from the side.

Note how the small circuit board mates up with the motor. Note there are two contacts on this side - the obvious one makes contact with the side of the loco body - providing a negative connection for the chassis.
This is essential for the negative (left side) pickup via the axle, and for the lights.

Note the contact which needs to be sitting on the metal strips near the spring holding the brushes. It hasn't made it here (but it was difficult to manoevre with the camera in the other hand !)

There we go, thats better. Note you do not need these two parts to be in contact yet, but we do need to check that the copper strips will touch where they are supposed to. We also need to understand what is happening when we drop the motor into place.

The inside of the body has been sprayed black. It looks like it wasn't meant to be, but there needs to be an electrical contact made on one side.....

....best clean it up with a little wet and dry emery paper.

Drop the small circuit board into position. Note the contact on the inner wall of the left hand side (the loco is facing to the right in this shot). Note the other two contact strips, curved ready for the motor to sit on top.

Drop the worm gears into position. In the following photos note the bushes, the spacer and how they sit in the chassis. Note also that the worm gear is turned so that the plastic coupling has its open end pointing upwards.

Worm gears in place, small circuit board in place with wires running up the inside of the right hand side of the body. In this shot, the top circuit board is 'folded over' out of the way while we put the motor in.

Refit the worm gear cover plate by locating the tabs into place on the lefthand side of the loco, and dropping the other side down. Fit the cheesehead screws.

Slip the bracket over the other end of the motor spindle, align the oval ends so that they are vertical, and gently drop the motor into place. Keep an eye on the wires, which run up the side of the motor, so that they don't get trapped. You may need to agitate the motor in order to allow the couplings to marry up. Dont force it. If it wont drop down, lift it up, realign the motor couplings and position the two wires at the side, and try again. Find the 4 screws and fasten the brackets into place.