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The lower circuit board has 3 copper tabs on one side, and one or two coils
and a capacitor on the other. Note that the green wire is
soldered to one leg of the capacitor, and to one end of a coil.
It looks as though it is soldered to the board, but isn't. No
need to de-solder it then. The red wire is
soldered to the centre strip. Leave that in place, we can use
it later. The other points are soldered onto the end of the
copper tabs which are clasped onto the edge of the circuit board.
These clasps must be left in place. Look at the photos, look
at your board, and understand what you are de-soldering before you
start. |
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In this photo, in spite of my warning above, the chassis tab came off
the circuit board. It turned out to be a very loose fit.
So here is what that looks like in close up. |
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Here is the lower circuit board with the two motor tabs on either
side of the board, and the single negative tab which presses against
the inside of the body. |
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And here is the dislodged tab fitted back onto the circuit board.
It was held in place by the capacitor before we removed it.
Keep an eye on it, it may slide off again. When we come to
connect wires, careful routing of the negative wire before soldering
may help to secure it again. |
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Here is the circuit board cleaned with everything removed except for
the red wire. I believe that I may be able to re-use this, so
I have left it in place. I may change my mind later. Note
the cleaned up tracks at each end of the circuit board. This
is where the positive contact from each bogie sweeps across and
provides the positive power to the loco. |
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You may notice that the inside of the diesel body has some black paint
sprayed on it. I assume that this is stray paint from spraying
the underside of the chassis. I don't know if it is
conductive, but I would guess not. The tab on the lower
circuit board makes contact with this painted surface, and provides
the only connection that the diesel has with the negative power. |
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My suggestion is that you clean this surface, to ensure that the
connection is a good one. The photo shows the lower circuit
board in place with the side cleaned of spray paint in the important
contact area. Note how close the contacts are to each other,
and when the motor is inserted, how close the side contact is to the
motor body. |
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Note that the motor has TWO (red) insulating tubes on the brushes.
Normally, this type of motor has one, with the negative power
provided through the motor body and spring to the brush. Had
this been the case, we would have to isolate the brush from the
motor body. Given that not all locos are not manufactured in
the same way, just check that your model has both ends of the spring
insulated. If not, make it so. Once they are both
insulated, the proximity of the side tab in the previous photo, is
not an issue. |
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Make sure that the contacts on the bogies underneath the lower circuit board are clean
and that they press upwards onto the 'sweep' track on the underside
of the circuit board. (You did clean that track, didn't you ?) |