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I think your maintenance notes are brilliant and most useful. I have a dockyard engine that runs very well but one of the cogs is missing between the rear and the middle set of wheels. Have you any idea where I could get a replacement please*

No, I am sorry. It is difficult to source these parts - Minitrix stopped making them nearly 40 years ago as far as I know. I have no way of knowing whether the more recent Minitrix models use any of the same parts. The best option is to look out for a model that is in bits or has a faulty motor to slavage for parts. Some of the European models with a tall chinmey are essentially the same as the dock tank. Other than that, I do not know.






9F bottom plate fixed and running again. Thanks for your comments. I had removed the plate to avoid glue running into the gears. I think a previous owner may have over-tightened the front countersunk screw which split the bottom plate. It*s not perfect and still runs a little rough but I only have a short test track at the moment so will investigate further when I can give it a longer run.

Well done - it's a difficult component to fix !






I found your website sometime ago and it proved to be excellent to solve a tender pick-up problem on my Evening Star.**I have recently acquired a 9F 92018 with a broken front corner on the bottom plate. I have the pieces and via your website have the remainder of the bottom plate removed.**Please advise if I should use poly cement or superglue or liquid poly or * to rebuild the bottom plate. I would rather get it right the first time.

Hmm. Ive never had that problem with a 9F. I had a broken plate on my Mallerd, and tried all sorts to fix it, but ended up making a new plate out of thick plastic card (eg an old floppy disk casing). However, the 9F has all of those slots for the gears. Poly cement melts the plastic to create a weld - but get it wrong and your plastic is destroyed. I'd be tempted to use thin superglue to get a decent butt joint, and then strengthen it with a layer glued to the underneath. Be careful glue doesn't run into the gears. But I am not an expert on what works best.






You list only two 2 Minitrix Class 42s. I have just bought a 42 numbered D823 Hermes in Maroon. Could you please if possible let me know the Catalouge number for this variant of the Class 42, iof in fact this Minitrix. Thank you. fred Windle

Hi. Email sent. Minitrix introduced a blue and green class 42 in 1970 according to the 1970 catalogue. However, there seem to have been a number of variations around with different names and including maroon versions. Sometimes it is difficult to tell which are genuine and which are resprays of the standard models. I have tended to focus on the UK Hornby Minitrix range, which started in 1973. Hornby introduced the class 42s in 1974 and 1979, and seem to have stuck with blue and green variants. The catlogues and price lists never seem to quote the name plate, so it is impossible for me to say. All Minitrix models that I have, have the words 'Trix' & 'Western Germany' on the baseplate. I can usually tell from a photo, especially if the body is removed.






Very useful site, particularly the maintenance videos.I have 3 Hornby Minitrix locos and despite their age, they all run fairly well.

Thanks Bob. The videos take some time to put together, but are worth the effort !






A lovely site, brings back many happy memories. I still have my class 47 - not been run for many many years. originally it was county of Norfolk but was speedily changed to be a Scottish based loco,47636 sir John De Graeme complete with Highland stag transfers. Many thanks indeed

Many thanks for those kind words. I love the class 47s, and managed to complete the set of 4 a year or so ago. I've converted them to DCC and they are running well. The same information is also at in a different format - but you might prefer the way the pictures are presented.






A question - Hallo, I have a Trix steamloco Mallard 60022. I have a question about the motor. Under the motor you have a small brass strip. Connection to the chassis. But can you tell me the place for a small peace of a brass plate. If I take a look of one of your Picture, about wiring to the motor, I think I can see a little peace of this brass plate bottom of the chassi. Must it be in contact with the motors brass strip.

Hi Bjorn. The separate brass plate fits under the motor towards the front motor support. It has a tag that fits over the left hand edge, and fits quite snugly - but loose ! The plate and the chassis must be clean bare metal. The brass strip on the motor must make a good contact with the brass plate underneath. I had one model - bought new in the 1980s - that needed to be repositioned as it wasn't touching anything. Since this provides the power from the left hand track to the motor, this was a problem. It ran much better after I re-soldered it ! Email sent.




*Earl Ghylldale* 


I must come clean. I am a 009 modeller and have a collection of 4mm scale narrow gauge locomotives which use the 2-6-2T chassis. Having said that, I have become so impressed by the quality, that I am also building up a collection of locos and stock for an N gauge project* ****I would appreciate your help in replacing the valve gear on a couple of locos. They were damaged when an out of control mobility scooter crashed into the layout at a show.****A fellow 009er has offered to let me have a couple of non-working 2-6-0 locos from which to take the valve gear and I have studied your excellent guidance on this site. I am a bit apprehensive about prising off the coupling rods and punching out out the gear-wheel axle, to remove the valve gear. Can you help please ?

I'll try to help. The removal of the valve gear is rather odd, but by no means daunting. Maybe a video will help. I'll see what I can do. Email response sent to the address that you provided.






I have come back to Minitrix. First engaged late 60*s*** through 70*s. Have now a selection of locos and then find your wonderful website with all the information I could wish for. Thank you so very much for this extraordinary resource. Many happy returns are expected...

Many thanks Drew, glad you have found it and it is of use to you. I've sent a private message to the email address that you provided.






Hi John. Been using the site again replacing traction wheels on my Ivatt 2-6-0 tender. Just noticed that the headline photos on the 2 locos tender and tank are reversed. Hope you are keeping well. All the best. Jeremy.

Many thanks Jeremy. I have just been revamping those front pages with some better photos, and adding a pictorial history. I followed the pictures that wer there originally - so my error dates back a long time ! Serves me right for using the same pictures for the 2 different models.






Hi, great website. An immense amount of data for folks like myself. Like you, I find most of my locos on ebay, or swap-meets. I just love restoring them. Found your step-by-step breakdowns invaluable. Also having difficulty sourcing spares. Can I also suggest another website, which shows exploded diagrams for minitrix locos. Cheers

Many thanks for the comments. Spares are hard to come by. Somtimes they come up on ebay, but mostly I salvage older models. That nsesoftware is excellent. I can't put links on my site as it points to stuff that I believe is copyrighted, but I do use the site a lot for reference.




Dad cat 


Still the best n gauge *fix-it* site on the web. I'm blind in one eye and only 30% vision in the other but still stripped and repaired my 3 class 42s using the brilliant description and pictures. Repainting them though....... Not so good. Thanks - David

Many thanks for the comment. That is very impressive working in n-gauge on Class 42s. They are nice locos, but there are still some tiny bits to cope with. I'm really pleased that you found the website useful. e-mail sent to the address that you provided.






I am trying to obtain new brushes for the Bodicea. anyone know a supplier*

Go to the German ebay site - and log in. Enter 'trix 40015900' as a search. You'll find some there. The chap you are after is lok-doctor. Click on the item and put it in your watch list. Then click on his other items in his shop. You'll find traction tyres there too 72151300 and a few other bits. Might as well save on the postage. Put them in your watch list and log off, then log into your english ebay site and get them from your watch list.




Ian T 


Has there been any signs of the crosshead availability improving*****I have for some years been repairing models for the OO9 Society and have now run out of the crossheads.****Do like your web site, very useful.****

Many thanks for the comment. No, sorry - we have been searching for these tiny components for the n gauge minitrix models - without success. We are currently evaluating a supply of 3d printed crank pins, but initial feeling is that they are too fragile - having broken in the post in spite of careful packaging. Email sent.





I would like to know how to take the loco body off the Brittania from way back probably 70s. This one is black and has been weathered. It has just come into my hands and it needs some TLC. Any help will be appreciated. - Also is it likely to be a 3, or 4, pole motor. - Many thanks. -

Thanks for using the site. - Private email sent in response. The top should lift off easily after the screw has been removed. See Video in Britannia section - Valve Gear. Motor is a 3 pole and is the same in all Minitrix 4-6-2 locos.






Hi there, - - Trying to find part: #41203987 for a Trix 2-6-2 tank loco. One of the plastic bits has snapped on mine. I tried the marklin website, but doesn't look like they stock it anymore. Do you have a place where you are sourcing parts from?

No sorry. We (look at too) have been trying to get to grips with this for some time now. My only source for models I am repairing for myself is to wait for something to crop up on ebay. The plastic bits (valve slider and crankpin) are a weak point on these old models. The plastic hardens.






The info on the Minitrix Fowler Dock Tank is brilliant. Does anyone know if you can squeeze a DCC decoder into this loco?

Thanks for the comment! There is a bit of space in the cab above the motor. I have tried to fit a chip, but those wires take up a lot of space. I left it for a while, awaiting inspiration. I didnt decide it was impossible. I just haven't got a solution as yet.





Very useful site, thanks. I have four dock tanks and they are super little engines. One of them has a very early LNER J63 kit body. Could you advise what sort of grease you are using for lubrication, and is it better than using light oil? Thanks again.

Glad you found the site useful. I use a light smear of silicon grease on plastic cogs and worm gears - much less than in the photos. It tends to stay in one place. Light oil is probably better - but can splatter if over applied. Less friction obviously. a very tiny drop of oil on the motor brass bush. Again - I use silicon. Private email sent.






Very impressed with the work you have put in for our benefit - much appreciated - saved me heaps of time and frustration. Thanks - Chris

Thanks. From your email, i note you are fitting tyres to the Ivatt 260. These are the easiest of the locos as the tyres go on the rear, and the crank pins just pull out. Still fiddly though.






Very useful instructions on maintaining the minitrix dock tank! The front rapido coupling on mine is drooping and won't couple onto anything. I suspect there's a spring inside which has broken or popped out. Have you any tips on removing the coupling to check/fix? Regards and thanks

I don't remember ever doing it with a Minitrix loco, but it looks like requiring you to price open the metal clasp. Springs available from Farish - part number 379-405. I don't know if the couplings are a direct fit though. You included your email address, so I've sent you a more detailed response.





What a stroke of luck finding your website. After servicing my class 27, it would not run at all. But thanks to your information and pictures i can see that i made a few mistakes on reassembling it. Im looking forward to getting it right this time. As most of my engines are Minitrix i know where to look next time. Keep up the good work.

I made a few mistakes when I first did it too ! Thanks for the comments.





Thank you for a very useful website. I have followed carefully advice and comments re service to 2f Dock tank. I'm pleased to say, all went well when I plucked up courage to have a go. Motor brushes have worn down quite a lot I'm afraid, I don't think they will last much longer, are they still available ? . Do you know of any alternative or replacement I could use ? . Please keep up the good work, I'm glad I found your site.. I've left my email and hope you will make contact.

Glad you found it useful. The 2F is a nice one to work on - no pesky valve gear to get in the way ! Detailed email sent. For others - see the Key Parts section to locate numbers and use in e-bay sites - esp german ones. Try with and without hyphens.





Hi I am lovingly rebuilding/restoring a battered A4 that I purchased from ebay. What I desperatly need is the wheel retaining plate and a front bogie, also a "Sier Nigel Gresley" loco body if one is avaliable.

Can't help with that I'm afraid. Look out for bits on ebay - that's what I do. It is possible to make a baseplate using plastic card - I did one, but the offset peg for the front bogie is a bit awkward. It worked though. Needs thicker than credit card. I used a blank Dell PCMCIA slot protector from a laptop.






Just completed dcc conversion of my old Mallard, including lamp control. Chipped with a Bachmann 36-558 6 pin and a plug-in harness in the loco. Lots of work to get it running smoothly using the guidance on this site.

Thanks for the comment. I'd love to see a picture of that - I didn't think there was room for that chip AND the holder and harness. Where did you fit it ? I've recently seen a 9F conversion fitted on a plastic shelf above the worm gear, which looked neat. If you post again with your email address, I'll send you the info. (And maybe you could send me a picture of your conversion ?)






Hi there, I have my Britannia Class No 70009 "Alfred The Great" running great now thanks to your very helpful photos you emailed me. My engine is the later version, the only differences I have come across are front bogie spoked wheels, wheel linkages have black painted inserts, centre drive wheel has a square locating linkage pin as opposed to a splined one, and the cabin roof has only the centre section of the roof done black as opposed to a full black roof. The wiring is the same as in your website only the small capacitor is a different shape, I have just renewed a tyre [I won two on that auction site] to the left front wheel following your very good video.

Well done, these things are not easy to work on. And many thanks for your comments. The differences that you mention are much as I expected - it seems as though the newer ones have adopted the Mallard/Scotsman chassis and wheels. Can you spot any difference in the gearing ? Look at the axle on the gear which is between the drive wheels on the right. My Britannia has the pivot point roughly in line with the drive wheel axles. The Scotsman / Mallard has a smaller gear in between the drive wheels,and the axle is MUCH higher. You can see the gear easily viewing from the left side.





Great web site especially for beginners like me. The U tube video is useful. Any more in the near future? I have two minitrix 9Fs, both second hand. The Evening Star is an early version and has lights and is having the tyres replaced. It looked too complex for me to attempt with the complex valve gear.

No vids planned, sorry. What did you want to see, maybe I could do one? The tyre replacement is easily done without messing with the valves gear. The tyres are on the back wheels, the crank pins are push fit and the coupling rod is in two halves split at the centre wheel. Email sent.





Hi,Just wondering if you have any info on fitting a decoder to the Minitrix Warship. I was thinking of using a Digitrax DZ125 as this is very small. I'm also going to finally pluck up courage and fit one to my 9F. Anyway if you could help or point me in the direction to where I might find the info, I would greatly appreciate it.Many thanks again for your great site. Kind regards, Rob

Sent an email reply to this. I don't have a Warship, but if you send me some good qaulity pics of the two circuit boards, both sides, I'll get back to you.





Thanks for the reply, I soldered the black wire as said but still no joy, If I connect a 9v PP3 to the tender wheels the engine bulb lights up but no motor if I connect to the chassis and the red wire the engine runs but no light. I would have liked to have seen a pic of the opposite side of the engine where the other coloured wire are soldered to. Just can

I've sent an email to the address you gave. Hope it helps. I reckon one end of the coil lead is broken and needs reattaching, or removing altogether. I have sent details.





Great website lots of photo info regarding my Britannia class loco No 70009, only could you tell me where the black wire goes to on the engine?

Aye. The black wire comes from the right hand pickups in the tender and connects to the tab that connects to the locos pickups on the right hand drive wheels. You can see it in the photos INSIDE link - except it has been covered by the wax. The tab is sandwiched by the red plastic square in front of the central post on the chassis. The green wire goes to the lower brush on the motor. Assuming no one has changed the wiring. 70009 ? Someone has clearly changed something - maybe not the wiring though.



Aussie downunder 


Have watched your video on the Britannia con rod dismantle and reassembly ,Brilliant a must for all with Mini Trix steam locos to watch,I give it 100.

Many thanks. I hope others find it useful too !






Ivatt 2-6-0 and Tender. Notes and photos added to supplement those already written for the Ivatt 2-6-2 model.






Website Updated - Added a section for the Britannia loco (which uses the same chassis as the Mallard and Scotsman). The additional pages document the differences which are not already covered in the Mallard section.

Also - video showing removal and replacement of valve gear and of tyre being fitted to front wheel.




Aussie downunder 


I have only just found your web site it is brilliant and I commend you for your effort, work and in depth explanations. I have old BR 01, BR 24 and BR 52. I am doing some rework and you have helped so much. I have found some parts are available from Marklin Germany. I am using TCS decoders and I did not think that you could use the old Trix motors with dcc decoders.Regards Aussie downunder.

Most Welcome. E-mail sent. I've had no problems with Trix motors and DCC so far. I hadn't heard of that issue. The motors have a lower top speed with DCC. What parts have you obtained from Marklin ?





Hi, A brilliant web site. Have just bought a 9F at a boot sale. It's in it's original box and looks brand new. I will be converting it to DCC and could not believe my luck in discovering your site.As it looks as if no one as ever used it, what would you recommend with regards to lubrication and could you tell me if the small screw on the top of the locos body is in fact what holds the body to the chassis. Many thanks for all your time and efforts.

Congratulations on the 9F. I've sent an email direct, since you included your e-mail address. Screw - is a long one, and yes that is the one to separate the body from the chassis. Lubricate - it may be Ok, especially if clean, but a very tiny drop on the motor spindle bearing at each end (as described on the site) will probably be required. Let the motor spin for a while to let it work in. Hold tender on track, lift loco to let it run without a load and without driving.






FIXED!!!!! Yes! I'm so Happy John....its been driving me bonkers! I'm at work right now without too much time. I will explain all later tonight in email. Without your excellent web site I would not have been able to do it! Thank you! I owe you a pint. Evening Star never ran better...forwards :)

You are welcome, and glad you have sorted it out. We had lots of suggestions for the cause of the fault, which one was it that caused the erratic forward running ?






Thanks for your reply. I have carefully examined your photos for the Evening Star and I do think the gears on my loco are VERY short on grease compared to yours. I am always afraid to put too much but as you say they are well protected. I am going to be a bit more generous with the grease now and see how it goes.

Generally speaking, thin smears of grease are better. I think I overdid it in the photos. But it hasn't spread, and it is all well away from the motor and the wheel surfaces. I don't know whether mine is an appropriate grease, but it is silicon, which is good on plastic stuff. Careful not to handle the body with oily hands. Especially mineral oil. It lifts the paint. Recently read that too much grease builds up the pressure in fast moving components. Don't know about that, I thought most of the surplus would get squeezed out in the first few revolutions, which I always do by hand after applying the grease. Long email sent.





Thanks for a great website! I have a Mini Trix Evening Star, Britannia and LNER version of the Flying Scotsman. I love them all! I have started to get some grief from my Evening Star. It runs very nicely BACKWARDS but very badly forwards. Not jerky but gradual slow down then speed up. If I prop up the loco and run the wheels free using just the tender pickups, it runs very well in both directions. I have done the usual lubing and cleaning. I am wondering if I have enough grease on the gears? Sounds to me like a gearing issue. Any thoughts? I love your total breakdown photos. Thank you again.

Hmm. Difficult one to pin down. My docktank is awkward backwards but fine forwards, and I've not tracked it down yet. I'd be looking at gears through a hand lens - something might be cracked or have hair trapped in there. I'll send an email since you've provided your address.





What an excellent site.Your clear instructions and brilliant photos have been a massive help for me whilst restoring/repairing a couple of 2MTs. Thanks for putting in all the time to set this up, much appreciated. Keep up the good work.

Glad it helped. Hope the 2MTs get restored OK, they are great little engines.



Silly Moo 


Thank you very much for sharing this very useful information. I am a great Minitrix fan, I know that the locos are not exact replicas of British locos but they are well made and run well which is a big bonus as far as I'm concerned.

Thanks for the comment. Keep an eye on this site - I have developed it considerably recently, although it is still being tested on another server.





A brilliant website. I have a large collection of Minitrix and now I am retired have commenced building a layout. Some of the locos I have require attention. It will be a great help. I am thinking of compiling a database of all the Minitrix stock, using catalogues and my own stock, do you think it would be of interest?

Thanks very much for the comments. Good luck with the repairs and the database. Private response sent as you included your e-mail address !






Great to find this site as I have a cherished collection of these models all in various states of repair. I plan on trying to convert them all to dcc, including the lighting function. Thanks for a very instructive site.

Thanks for the comments. Please keep returning - we have plans for developing this further. Good luck with the conversions, I've done 3 now. 9F and Eve Star by milling the boiler weight. Scotsman and Ivatt located in the tender. Let me know if you succeed in getting a chip in the dock tank or in the 2-6-2 Ivatt !!




Swiss Fred 


Well, inspired by this site as much as anything, I got quite seriously stuck in via eBay with a pile of Minitrix engines as my starting point for a serious N layout. Several locos sold as . working. really didn't - all needed a strip and sortout. So I started going for the honest listings of . spares and repair. and so far I have got everything bar one that literally dissolved . God knows what cleaner had been used. going as good as or better than new.. . . . I also found a source for the 2mm

Thanks for the comments. Glad it helped, and sorry you got cut off mid sentence. Project for today - increase the number of characters allowed in the reply! Email sent.






You're to be congratulated for making all this information available,thank you very much.I like the Minitrix locos,they seem to be better made than the newer Farish stuff,certainly easy to work on and I'm converting mine to DCC and your site really helps.

You are welcome. Glad it helps - but remember that this isn't official information - the site is just my findings from taking the models to bits and reassembling them. I dont pretend to be an authority on minitrix. But the photos help enormously, I think. Im currently fitting DCC, and have done more than I have written on the site. Get in touch if you want to exchange notes.






. continued. both work in each direction - 2. my black Ivatt 2-6-0 loco has the wire coming out of the tender not attached to anything else - not sure where to reattach - any help on these matters greatly recieved

Black wire is a positive pickup lead which attaches to the tab under the weight in the tender. This connects to the copper strip on the right wheels and to the solder blob at the bottom of the coil on the plastic 'frame' that clips over the rear of the motor.






a great resource - the step by step photos of strip down . rebuild are invaluable to me - having just bought a job lot of minitrix locos which came without any instructions - most are working, but still your photos have really helped with cleaning my locos - I am still truggling with the following 1. trying to get lights working on my class 27 diesel - they work intermittantly so bulbs ok - just trying to understand how copper strips should be attached - are the lights directions - or both wor

Lights are directional, so there must be diodes in there somewhere. Post me your email address on here (no one else will see it, and I'll delete the message rather than approve it) I'll see if I can help. I have a new class 27 here that I can refer to. I seem to remember an intermittent connection when I took mine apart - something to do with the top circuit board not seating properly I think.




Swiss Fred 


What an amazingly useful site for an old fart rediscovering his youth. Congratulations, and if you put up a paypal donation page, you could do well. The first system I ever had was a 1950s hand-me-down inherited OO Trix Twin set - three rails for running two at once, AC driven with a fabulously quirky direction flipper. God Knows what that would be worth to a collector now.

Thank you sir. I enjoyed putting it together. The paypal donation link - now there's a good idea !






I also fitted DCC to the Evening Star, I put a Lenz Gold Mini with USP in to the tender and hooked up to a red white LED in the loco, but the wires from tender to loco spoil it a bit. If I had read this first I would put it in the Loco minus USP . but it does creep smoothly over dirty track. . . Also fitted DCC to the Dock Tank, but the motor in that is tired now . it was my first n-gauge as a boy. . Great site. Thanks.

Thanks for the comments. I have done the Evening Star and the black 9F now. Brilliant engine. I'd love to know how you fitted DCC to the dock tank. Does the chip fit above the motor then ?




Peter D 


I have aquired a black BR 9F but unfortunately the baffles at the front of the loco are missing, you wouldn't happen to have a spare body I could purchase or spare baffles.

No, sorry. I'm just a private hobbyist. Look out on ebay for 9f or britannia / boadicea body shells. (same body) Also german ebay ( - but check the seller does paypal first. You may get lucky. Good luck!






Thanks for your very helpful website... I'm using a 92018 to make a Czech narrow gauge 0-10-0 tender loco and your photos have been very useful. http. . . lok-u57.html

Thanks for the comments. I love the 92018 locos. So much pulling power and able to cope with very tight bends.

Maintaining Classic UK Minitrix Locos
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