Classic UK Minitrix Models  -  Ivatt 260

Most  of the photos and descriptions on this page relate to the 2-6-2 version of the model, but there are some particular issues with the 2-6-0 model of which you need to be aware.  The photos on the left show the 2-6-0 chassis upside down as the wheels were being placed into position.

It is not as easy to tell which end is the front when the model is upside down.  Spot the round brass washer which should now be placed over the top hat plastic washer.  This is the front of the loco.

Also, the wheels are not identical.  Although the wheels are interchangeable with those from the 2-6-2, the front wheel of the 2-6-0 is fitted with a tyre.  If no tyre is present, then get one and fit it now.  It goes on the wheel with a broad groove.

Finally (and this applies to the 2-6-2 as well), when new, the other two axles are identical, but when they have been fitted, the centre wheel will have had a splined pin pushed into the crank hole.  The other two wheels will have had a smooth pin pushed into the crank hole.  This may make a difference to the fit of the crank pins if they are mixed up.

So the wheels look interchangeable, but really are not.  Front has the tyre, centre had the splined crank pin, rear had the smooth crank pin.  Oh - and note that in these photos, the crank pin holes are not aligned.  The rear wheel is one tooth out of alignment.

How to fit wheels - Using a 2-6-2 chassis.

The chassis from the left side. Not the delicate contact strips - the one behind the middle drive wheel slot is bent. It should point straight down.

The chassis from above - gearbox and fluff still in place. Note the delicate contact strips.

Chassis from the front looking underneath. Note the brass washer and insulating washer on the threaded boss which holds the front bogie. I suggest that you don't, but if you feel the need to remove the contact strips from the chassis, take a good look at how this is positioned, and how it is isolated from the chassis by plastic and by air gaps.

A better view of the front bogie connection - soldered to the right hand side contact strip. The chassis is upside down. Front is to the left.

All contact strips cleaned and straightened - then bent out to ensure a good spring contact against the wheels.

Fitting the centre wheel. The gears have been greased and fitted - too much, but after partial assembly and a push back and forth, the grease will be well distributed and the surplus wiped away. Note the flimsy contact on the far side wheel.

Centre wheel from above.

Fitting the front wheel. Fiddly because the contact strip keeps poking out. Note the alignment of the holes - both at 6 o'clock. Hold the front wheel in place and adjust the centre wheel to match the front wheel's position. Its easier - the centre wheel's contact strips stay in place more readily when you lift the wheel past the teeth in the cogs.

The back wheel is much more of a problem. I resorted to making a tool to hold the contact strips in place. Here it is. A folded bit of card....

...with 2 slots to allow the axles to pass. The card is about 1cm x 3cm.

And here it is in place. This allows the back wheel to be lifted away from the cogs so that its position relative to the front and centre wheels can be adjusted. The springs are held in place by the card. The wheels hold the card against the springs.

And at last, I think I have all 3 axles facing the same way. I didn't take photos of the number of times the front wheel popped out while I was doing this. But you cant rush. Any carelessness and you risk destroying the contact strips.

The front and rear bogies are identical to each other on the 2-6-2 model.  The 2-6-0 model of course has just one bogey.  I have shown photos of both from above and from below in this photo. The front bogie carries power from the right hand track through the little brass strip. The rear bogie faces the other way, so the same arrangement carries power from the left hand wheel.

Note the contact strip springing against the top side of the bogie axle - particularly clear in the top photo taken from my 2-6-0.

The fully assembled gears, axles and bogies. Everything loosely placed in position. Not the best time for the cat to show herself.

Don't place the loco this way up until you have fitted the baseplate !!! Note that the plate will fit either way around. The correct way is to have the brake mouldings placed in front of their respective wheels. The carboard tool can be gently removed after the baseplate is fitted. Be careful not to drag the contacts out of position.

The copper contacts at the rear are important. The stick out with a little bit of upward tilt. Note that the strips at the side should slot into the recess behind the wheel flange. It helps if these contacts are clean.

The front of the loco with the wheels and motor in place. And as I write this, I notice that the front wheel has a crack in it. Maybe this was why the valve gear fell apart soon after I bought it - the wheel must have been in the centre, and the pin has fallen out. The conrod hit the track and the result was a broken slider pin. Hmm. It seems to be running Ok though, and if nothing else, I will have a nice set of spares ! I've replaced this wheel in the centre, and some superglue will hold it together.

Maintaining Classic UK Minitrix Locos
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